A million
wildebeest each one driven by the same ancient rhythm, fulfilling
its instinctive role in the inescapable cycle of life. A frenzied
three-week bout of territorial conquests and mating; survival of the
fittest as 40 km long columns plunge through crocodile-infested waters
on the annual exodus north, replenishing the species in a brief population
explosion that produces more than 8,000 calves daily before the 1,000
km pilgrimage begins again.
Tanzania's oldest and most popular national park, the Serengeti is
famed for its annual migration, when some six million hooves pound
the open plains, as more than 200,000 zebra and 300,000 Thomson's
gazelle join the wildebeest’s trek for fresh grazing. Yet even
when the migration is quiet, the Serengeti offers arguably the most
scintillating game-viewing in Africa. Great herds of buffalo, smaller
groups of elephant and giraffe, and thousands upon thousands of eland,
topi, kongoni, impala and Grant’s gazelle.
Animals
and Birds
The spectacle of predator versus prey dominates Tanzania’s greatest
park. Golden-maned lion prides feast on the abundance of plain grazers.
Solitary leopards haunt the acacia trees lining the Seronera River,
while a high density of cheetahs prowls the southeastern plains. Almost
uniquely, all three African jackal species occur here, alongside the
spotted hyena and a host of more elusive small predators, ranging
from the insectivorous aardwolf to the beautiful serval cat.
But there is more to Serengeti than large mammals. Gaudy agama lizards
and rock hyraxes scuffle around the surfaces of the park’s isolated
granite koppies. A full 100 varieties of dung beetle have been recorded,
as have 500 plus bird species, ranging from the outsized ostrich and
bizarre secretary bird of the open grassland, to the black eagles
that soar effortlessly above the Lobo Hills.
As enduring as the game-viewing is the liberating sense of space that
characterises the Serengeti Plains, stretching across sunburnt savannah
to a shimmering golden horizon at the end of the earth. Yet, after
the rains, this golden expanse of grass is transformed into an endless
green carpet flecked with wildflowers. And there are also wooded hills
and towering termite mounds, rivers lined with fig trees and acacia
woodland stained orange by dust.
Popular the Serengeti might be, but it remains so vast that you may
be the only human audience when a pride of lions masterminds a siege,
focussed unswervingly on its next meal.
Location
335 km from Arusha, stretching north to Kenya and bordering Lake Victoria
to the west.
What
to do
Hot air balloon safaris, Maasai rock paintings and musical rocks.
Visit neighbouring Ngorongoro Crater, Olduvai Gorge, Ol Doinyo Lengai
volcano and Lake Natron's flamingos.
When
to go
To follow the wildebeest migration, December-July. To see predators,
June-October
Accommodation
Four lodges, four luxury tented camps and camp sites scattered through
the park;
one luxury camp, a lodge and two tented camps just outside.